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Urban Mushing 101: Equipment, Commands, & How to Start!

Sports By Kayla Fratt 23 min read March 20, 2023 19 Comments

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urban mushing

Strolling along the local bike path with your pooch, another dog – nearly just a blur – shoots past you. His tongue is lolling, and he’s stretched into a gallop. He looks thrilled. Should you call out to his owner? Is he an escapee?

Then you realize there’s a long bungee attached to the dog’s weird-looking harness, and his owner is rocketing along behind him. It looks crazy and fun!

It’s called urban mushing, and you immediately know that have to try it.

Urban mushing is an umbrella term for summer sports where your dog helps pull you forward. Generally, this is done with just one dog. Urban mushing might be done on foot, on a bike, on a scooter, or in a cart.

How on earth can you get involved in urban mushing? This looks like an incredible way to exercise your dog (and yourself) while expanding your training skills.

Let’s take a deep dive into urban mushing.

Urban Mushing: Key Takeaways

  • Urban mushing is an umbrella term that refers to a number of sports in which your dog pulls you. It was originally developed by serious dog mushers to keep their canines in shape during the offseason, but it has spread to the general public in the last several years.
  • Urban mushing takes many different forms. Some owners have their pup pull them on a bicycle, others prefer scooters, skateboards, or carts, and some owners simply like to run behind their pupperinos — there’s something for everyone!
  • You’ll need to teach your dog a few commands and acquire some equipment to enjoy the sport safely. Among other things, you’ll need to teach your dog to move forward, stop, and turn right or left. Equipment wise, you’ll need a proper harness, gangline, and some safety gear.

What Exactly Is Urban Mushing?

what is urban mushing

Urban mushing encompasses several different sports in one name. It’s also known as dryland mushing (sometimes called dry land mushing) to differentiate it from traditional mushing that takes place on snow.

Essentially, urban mushing includes any snow-free sport in which your dog helps pull you forward.

This group of sports was invented to keep racing sled dogs in top shape over the summer. But urban mushing has quickly gained popularity among the non-sledding crowd as a way to exercise high-energy dogs (especially those that love to pull).

What Are the Different Kinds of Urban Mushing?

There are actually a few different “flavors” of urban mushing, thereby giving you and your pooch a few different ways to enjoy the sport.

Typically, the term “urban mushing” includes canicross, bikejoring, scootering, carting, sulky and skatejoring. Some argue that skijoring (where your dog pulls you on cross-country skis) is neither urban nor dry land, so it’s not generally in this list.

Let’s take a minute to look at each subcategory of urban mushing:

We’ve already put together a guide to canicross and another guide to long-distance running with your dog, so we’ll mostly focus on the other aspects of dryland mushing below.

Canicross

canicross-dogs
Image from flickr user Julia Thissou

Canicross is the least equipment-intensive version of dryland mushing, but it also requires the most legwork on the human end.

In this sport, your dog gives you a boost by running ahead of you on a hands-free bungee hip leash while you run cross-country behind him. This sport is probably the least expensive way to test the waters with dryland mushing, and is probably the safest option for new human handlers.

Alternatively, if you just want to jog with your pup, you can learn how to teach your dog to run alongside you rather than embarking on canicross, which is more of a team effort with your dog helping to pull you.

Bikejoring

bikejoring-dogs
Image by flickr user Harold Meerveld

For those who don’t want to purchase a bunch of extra equipment but prefer cycling to running, bikejoring is a good option. This sport entails using a special bike leash rig setup, so that one or two dogs can help pull you on your bike.

This sport does require some modification to your bike so that your dog’s gangline (a fancy word for a bungee leash) doesn’t get tangled in your bike spokes. Of the wheeled urban mushing options, bikejoring requires the least specialized equipment.

Scootering

Biking behind your bestie sound a little intimidating? You may want to try riding a kick scooter instead!

Kick scooters offer a bit more stability than bikes do (as well as the ability to easily jump off without tumbling). They’re also popular with some dryland mushers who go out a lot because they feel more stable and controllable.

Unfortunately, most of us don’t have kick scooters lying around our garages. To try scootering, you’re probably going to need to spend some money on new gear.

Carting

Especially popular with large dogs such as Swiss mountain dogs and Newfoundlands, carting involves hooking your dog up to a wheeled cart and having him pull a load a specific distance.

But it isn’t just for big ‘ol pooches; carting is also a great option for smaller dogs who aren’t strong enough to pull their people but still enjoy the challenge of pulling. It’s also a great option for training-savvy pet parents who would like the dog to pull a stroller!

Skatejoring

For the true adrenaline-junkie, skatejoring allows your dog to pull you on your skateboard or rollerblades. This sport is a bit less well-known and looks pretty scary to those of us who aren’t comfortable on a skateboard, but it can be a blast for those with the necessary skills (and courage).

Skatejoring has a bad rap in some communities because of the tendency of inexperienced dabblers to head out without the proper pulling equipment for the dog and safety equipment for the owner. But if you get the right gear, skatejoring can be an exhilarating way to exercise your dog!

Using a Sulky

sulky dogs
Image from ChaluSulky.com

A bit like a chariot or a dog-drawn carriage, a sulky allows you to sit in a two-wheeled cart while your dog pulls you along. Unlike carting, sulky is not a good option for small dogs who can’t pull much weight — this is an activity for big-and-strong floofs.

However, it’s a relatively stable option for humans, and it makes a great alternative for those who’d rather not use a bike or scooter.

Tell me this doesn’t look like a blast!

The Benefits of Urban Mushing

skijoring-dogs
Image from flickr user Michael Schwartz

Now that you’re familiar with the subgroups within urban mushing, you might be wondering why you should try this instead of just taking your dog for a longer walk.

If urban mushing requires so much equipment and exercise, shouldn’t you just do something else?

When I first brought my border collie Barley home, I thought I knew what it meant to have an energetic dog. I was ready. I’d walk him three times a day, we’d play fetch, and maybe we’d hike on the weekends. It’d be fine, right?

Well… kind of.

For these super high energy dogs who love running (I’m looking at you, pointers, huskies, and herding dogs), a few walks and a bit of fetch isn’t really enough most days. They generally need a bit of a sustained workout and some mental exercise as well.

That’s where I discovered urban mushing.

Together, Barley and I have dabbled in scootering, bikejoring, canicross, and skijoring. He and I can certainly attest to the benefits of these sports!

Urban mushing can really help you and your dog in a variety of ways — it’s not just about the calories burned. A few of the most notable benefits of urban mushing include:

  • It gives you another way to bond with your dog. Getting out and doing just about any activity with your dog is one of the best ways to really deepen your bond together. Even if your dog is out ahead of you on a gangline, the time you spend mushing together will really help strengthen your relationship in a whole new context. You’ll really learn to trust each other and work together as a team, and this can help improve other aspects of your partnership as well.
  • It’ll help you and your doggo burn some excess energy. Of course, one of the biggest benefits to dryland mushing is that it’s a great workout (and as is always the case, extra exercise can be helpful for addressing behavioral issues). Depending on which form of dryland mushing you pick, you’ll find yourself getting stronger while your dog builds muscle! If you’d rather choose a form of urban mushing that isn’t as exercise-intensive for the owner, look into sulkying or carting instead of bikejoring or scootering.
  • It gives your pet a chance to learn new skills. Basic urban mushing cues are surprisingly helpful in day-to-day life. Whereas most owners would never think to teach their dog the commands “right, left, go straight, slow down, speed up, stop right there,” or even a “flying leave it,” it’s not hard to see how these mushing cues could be helpful in your daily life together. In fact, you might find yourself using mushing cues on your daily walks.

While most people start investigating urban mushing because they’d like to tire out or calm a hyperactive dog, this sport isn’t limited to just the energizer bunnies of the canine world.

Many dogs relish almost any opportunity to get outside and stretch their legs (especially with their beloved owner), so don’t hesitate to try urban mushing, even if your dog isn’t scary-energetic.

Interested in Urban Mushing?

If you are thinking about getting into urban mushing, consider checking out a dry land mushing event.

While these events aren’t easy to find in all locations, many large metropolitan host them regularly. Attending a dry land mushing event as a spectator is a great way to decide if you really want to spend the time and money to get started.


Which Dogs Are Right and Wrong for Urban Mushing?

the best breeds for urban mushing

Some breeds — particularly high-energy breeds — appear to be born to mush. This would include:

  • Siberian huskies
  • Alaskan malamutes
  • Pit bull terriers
  • Samoyeds
  • Newfoundlands
  • Labrador retrievers
  • Canadian Eskimo dogs
  • Most pointers

This list certainly isn’t exhaustive, but you get the idea. Also, note that even relatively small dogs can partake in urban mushing, as long as you’re OK with giving them assistance up hills, adjusting the load to ensure it is appropriate for their size, and keeping your sessions short.

However, some dogs probably should steer clear of urban mushing altogether. For example, dogs with joint pain, or orthopedic issues, such as hip dysplasia, may find this sport really uncomfortable.

Also, brachycephalic breeds (dogs with flattened faces and short noses) should sit this one out, as aerobic sports like pulling can be flat-out dangerous. So, you’ll have to find another way to spend time with your pug, shih tzu, French bulldog, or boxer.

And no matter what your dog’s face looks like, you’ll want to speak to your vet to make sure your canine is physically fit enough to start a pulling sport. Urban mushing should be a fun challenge, not a painful slog!

Urban Mushing Equipment: General Gear You’ll Need

The equipment that you need to start one of these sports will vary drastically based on what variety of urban mushing you choose to try. First, we’ll cover the basic things you’ll need for all types of urban mushing, then we’ll explore more specific equipment options for each individual sport.

All urban mushers will need:

A harness designed for pulling. Unfortunately, your dog’s day-to-day harness (even my beloved Ruffwear Front Range Harness) is not made for pulling, so you’ll need a harness designed for dogs who pull.

It is especially important to avoid no-pull dog harnesses and neck collars. This just plain dangerous for your dog.

Conversely, a harness designed for pulling helps your dog lean comfortably into the activity, while also distributing the weight load back onto your dog’s hips.

A good pulling harness will look a bit different, depending on whether you need one for carting or sulky, or you need a side-by-side setup.

Otherwise, for all other mushing efforts, the Ruffwear Omnijore (which includes a gangline and a human harness with a quick-release) and the Neewa Harness are both good bets.

A gangline. You’ll need a way to connect your dog to whatever it is that he’s pulling. A good gangline should be at least 7 feet (2 meters) long. If you’re considering using your setup in the snow or cold, be sure that you can handle the clip with gloves on.

Leash for Dogs

Safety equipment. If you plan on trying bikejoring, skatejoring, or scootering, get yourself a helmet. A bike helmet will probably do the trick for any of these activities, but use your own judgement when shopping.

You might also want to consider gloves (to save your palms), knee pads, and booties for your dog.

In the past when I’ve gone bikejoring, I wore gloves along with a helmet, but Barley usually went “barefoot.”

A driving collar. Most of the time, you’ll want a “driving collar,” which is a fancy name for a comfortable flat-buckle collar. This is important for keeping your dog in place while you’re getting the harness on (most of these harnesses take a bit of work) and a driving collar can also work as a back-up with a safety line attached.

If you’re mushing with two dogs, some setups connect the dogs using the collar so they can’t cross lines. Most setups allow you to connect an extra safety line to this collar, and some competitions even require it. You can probably just use your dog’s current flat buckle collar.

You’ll also want to bring along some water for you and your dog.

Aside from these basics, the rest of the urban mushing equipment is specific to each sport.

Urban Mushing Sport-Specific Equipment

In addition to the general things discussed above, which all urban mushers will need, there are a number of sport-specific things you may need to enjoy urban mushing with your mutt.

Canicross Equipment

ruffwear-omnijore

You will need a hip belt for yourself that allows your dog to comfortably help pull you in canicross.

A normal waist leash isn’t made to sit comfortably on your hips while your dog pulls, so be sure to get a specialized setup. I personally use the Ruffwear Omnijore system (discussed previously) for canicross and skijoring. You generally won’t need a helmet for canicross (unless you’re especially clumsy), but always use your best judgement.

Bikejoring Equipment

Obviously, you’ll need a bike to go bikejoring. But once you’ve got that box checked off, you’ll still need a bike attachment and a system to keep your dog’s gangline from getting tangled in your front wheel.

One of the best products around for this is the Scooter Noodle, which holds your gangline away from your wheel even if your dog slows down.

Scootering Equipment

A dog scooter or a canine-friendly kickbike is a hefty investment, but it’s worth it for dedicated urban mushers.

These nifty setups allow you to leap away from the vehicle more easily than a typical bike, in the event of a crash. As someone who’s taken a tumble on both a bikejoring and scootering trip, I can say that the urban mushing scooter fall was less painful!

Kickbike America LLC CZ0002 Cruise Max 20 Matte Creme

Again, as with bikejoring, you’ll also want to get a Scooter Noodle or similar setup to keep your gangline out of your wheel.

The dog-powered scooter is another option that’s a bit different than the traditional scooter setup, with you scootering right alongside your dog.

Carting Equipment

Aside from a specialized Siwash harness, your carting setup will need a pair of shafts and tracers to help connect your dog to the cart.

The shafts are the metal or wooden protrusions from the cart that connect to the harness. Tracers drape across your dog’s back near his waist and connect to the front of the cart.

Most carts are handmade and should be customized to fit your dog, so it’s best to get connected with a carting club to get some recommendations. Carting is relatively equipment-heavy and much of the equipment is hard to find, so it’s nice to have a mentor in this sport!

Sulky Equipment

sulky-harness
Image from ChaoSulky.com

Like with dog carting, sulky requires a bit of specialized equipment that you’re not likely to find on Amazon (let alone at a local store).

A sulky harness actually helps protect your dog’s back from the tip of the shaft. Most sulky carts are also custom-made, and this shop, Chalo Sulky, is a great place to start.

Skatejoring Equipment

Most people choose to hold their leash rather than having it attached to their hips while skatejoring.

Nevertheless, you’ll still want a leash or gangline with a bit of give, rather than a plain nylon leash. This will help reduce the shocks you feel and keep you vertical.

Aside from that, skatejoring requires standard safety equipment and a skateboard or roller blades, making it a relatively equipment-light option. But as when enjoying any pulling sport, ensure that you have a harness that evenly distributes weight for your dog.

Urban Mushing Commands: Gee, Haw, & More!

bikejoring-with-dog
Image from flickr user Harold Meerveld

Now that you’ve got your equipment in in order, you’re probably excited to hit the trails. Before you pack out for the local bike path, let’s make sure you and your dog have the necessary skills.

Teaching most urban mushing commands is relatively easy to do during your daily walks. Let’s go through the most common mushing commands and how to teach them.

It’s often easiest to teach these cues with an experienced dog, but that’s not always possible. Most of these cues are not difficult to teach if you’re diligent about practice on your daily walks.

Right, Left, and Go Straight: Gee, Haw, and Straight Ahead. Teach these during your daily walks by saying “gee” for right and “haw” for left before turning in the given direction, then guide him with your leash and body. Likewise, simply say “straight ahead” when you reach a junction that you’ll travel straight through.

dog mushing sports

Praise your dog or toss a treat in the correct direction to really send a good message. After about 30 repetitions of this, start giving the cue without turning and then reward your dog if he gets it right. Try not to turn or give any other body language hints to establish that Rover has really learned the lesson.

Solidify this skill further by practicing while traveling faster or working in distracting environments. Bike paths and heavily forked biking trails are an excellent place to practice as well. For dogs that really struggle, T-shaped hallways make a slightly easier practice area.

Run Past Something: On By. This is similar to a “leave it” command, but it tells your dog to ignore something and run by it. Again, you can practice this on walks by giving the cue and then running past something.

It’s often easiest to teach this if you make going “on by” really fun.

So, make a fuss with lots of squealing, running, praise, and training when you first start teaching this skill. This will help your dog learn that “on by” means to accelerate and ignore something.

Stop Moving: Woah. Teach this by saying “woah” and then stopping on walks. Don’t pull on your dog’s collar, but he’ll notice that “woah” is followed by a bit of pressure on the leash. Most dogs will learn to stop when they hear “woah” pretty quickly if you are consistent.

This might be less successful for dogs that are used to you giving corrections via the neck collar.

In that case, attach the leash to your waist so that you don’t accidentally jerk on his neck (old habits die hard). Then say “woah” and simply stop moving. As soon as your dog produces slack in the leash, toss him a treat.

Go Faster: Hike, Hike! This one is generally fun for dogs, and relatively easy to teach. It’s often easiest to teach when paired with “wait,” but you can also teach it on its own.

Don’t be afraid to do some accelerations along your walks or runs where you say “hike, hike,” then break into a trot, jog, or sprint to teach your dog that “hike, hike” really means to go faster!

Stay Where You Are: Wait. Many people teach this one at doorways and crosswalks. Simply say “wait” while you prevent the dog from going forward.

You can pair this with “hike, hike” by releasing the dog from his “wait” with a “hike, hike” cue! Most dogs quickly learn to wait on cue, then surge forward when told to.

Easy: Slow Down. This one is tricky! Once dogs get going, it’s often easier to stop them completely than to slow them down.

Again, I teach this by simply giving the cue and then performing the action. After some time, most dogs will respond to the cue without the guidance from the leash.

Tighten Up the Leash: Line Out. Some dogs love running but aren’t great at pulling. For these dogs, a cue like “line out” reminds them to tighten up the leash and put their backs into it.

Generally, people teach this by putting the dog in his harness, attaching his gangline to a tree or a fence, and walking out of reach. As soon as your dog tightens the line, reward. Repeat, then start adding the cue. Only then can you start to move behind the dog while giving the cue.

Having Trouble Teaching Your Dog Urban Mushing Skills?

If you’re really struggling to teach your dog these cues, one of the best ways to get a leg up is by using an experienced dog to teach yours. Find a local mushing club and hook the dogs up together — it will really kickstart your dog’s skills!

Daphne Lewis also has a handy video on YouTube (although it is a bit old and the quality could be better), showing how to start teaching your dog to pull a cart.

Is Urban Mushing Dangerous?

dangers of urban mushing

Like any sport that involves wheels and dirt, urban mushing can be a bit painful at times. Throw a high-energy husky into the mix, and it’s only fair to expect a few bumps and bruises.

Wearing appropriate safety equipment will certainly help reduce the chances of injury, but there are no guarantees. Accordingly, you need to use good judgement and always err on the side of caution.

For example, it’s important to ensure that the trail you’re on is wide enough and mellow enough for your skill level and chosen sport. Don’t head out down the local ski hill on your first trip with your kickbike!

Properly training your dog to slow down and wait is also incredibly important for safety. The worst injury I’ve received from urban mushing (a twisted finger on a kickbike ride) was thanks to one of the dogs I was running not stopping when cued to do so.

Another reason why I got a bit bruised on my kickbike ride was that I had already fallen off the bike, but I didn’t let go! I didn’t trust Barley’s running partner to stop at all, and I really didn’t want to lose the dogs.

This is why it’s so important to focus on good training! If I trusted the dogs to stop, I could have saved myself a fair bit of pain.

When I didn’t to let go, I was dragged behind the dogs for several feet until Barley nipped his traveling companion in the butt!

Ouch.

Finally, it’s important to ensure that you’re complying with local trail laws and norms.

For example, the Platte River Trail is full of runners with headphones in. We were always extra-careful not to startle runners when we passed them. Another local Denver trail, the Apex-Enchanted Forest Loop, mandates that all bikes go a given direction on certain days of the week. Breaking the rules makes urban mushers look bad and can result in a fine for you!

Teaching your dogs to politely pass others and always cleaning up after your dogs will help keep the rest of the community welcoming of urban mushers on their trails.

Keeping Your Dog Healthy When Urban Mushing

urban mushing safety

When you’re involved in urban mushing, you’re essentially turning your best friend into a canine athlete. And just like a human athlete, canine athletes need a bit of extra care to stay in top shape. Neglecting your dog’s health can cut a career short, or worse, cause injury that will leave her in pain for years.

So, keep the following tips in mind when urban mushing with your doggo:

  • Don’t push your dog too hard. On the canine end of things, don’t push your dog too far too fast. Just like you shouldn’t go straight from the couch to 26.2 miles for a marathon, your dog needs a long-distance running training plan, plenty of rest days, and some cross-training for good measure.
  • Don’t over-train your dog or force him to run when he’s sick or injured. For safety’s sake, only go out urban mushing when your dog is healthy. Also, generally speaking, you should avoid running on pavement as well. It’s just too hard on your dog’s joints.
  • Consider hiring a canine fitness trainer. A certified canine fitness trainer can help you create a plan for massage, stretch, core strength, and cross-training to keep your dog in top shape.
  • Keep a basic first aid kit with you. I always have some Musher’s Secret Dog Paw Wax, some gauze and tape, alcohol wipes, and nail clippers. That will take care of most paw injuries until we get back to the trailhead.
Prepackaged Dog First-Aid Kits FTW!

If you’d rather not piecemeal together a collection of first-aid supplies, you can always just pick up a prepackaged dog first-aid kit!

Urban Mushing FAQ: Your Questions Answered!

Still have a few lingering queries about urban mushing? We’ve got you covered! Check out some of the most common questions and answers about the sport below.

Is mushing cruel?

Opinions will certainly differ on this question, but many dogs appear to love the sport. So, as long as the dogs’ safety and well-being are kept in mind, and the sport is limited to those dogs who appear to enjoy it, we wouldn’t characterize it as “cruel.”

How is urban mushing different from dog sledding?

The primary difference between urban mushing and dog sledding is that the former takes place on dry land, while the latter takes place on snow- or ice-covered ground. Dog sledding also involves an entire team of dogs at times, whereas urban mushing is generally limited to one or two doggos.

What is dryland mushing?

Dryland mushing is often used as a synonym for urban mushing — it simply refers to the fact that the ground is free of snow or ice.

Do sled dogs get whipped?

Certainly not by compassionate mushers! Whipping dogs is nothing short of animal cruelty and we denounce it in the strongest terms. There is no need to whip sled dogs for typical or urban mushing — positive reinforcement is always key!

Why do mushers say “mush?”

It isn’t entirely clear, but the word “mush” likely arose as a derivation of the French word marchons, which means “to move.”

***

Have you tried urban mushing yet? What do you find most exciting about the sport? Are you a member of a local mushing club? We’d love to hear your stories!

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Written by

Kayla Fratt

Kayla Fratt is a conservation detection dog trainer and Certified Dog Behavior Consultant. She is a Certified Dog Behavior Consultant with the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants, a member of the American Society for K9 Trainers, and is a member of Dog Writer’s Association of America. She lives in her van with her two border collies traveling the country to help biologists detect data with her nonprofit, K9 Conservationists. Before coming to K9 of Mine, Kayla worked at Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of Western Montana as a Behavior Technician. She owns her own dog training business, Journey Dog Training and holds a degree in biology from Colorado College. When she’s not writing or training Barley and Niffler, Kayla enjoys cross-country skiing, eating sushi, drinking cocktails, and going backpacking.

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19 Comments

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Rodney B Higgins

Wheelchair users also enjoy mushing. Check out Facebook pages WHEELCHAIR MUSHING and NO MOUNTAINS WHEELCHAIR MUSHING. Google wheelchair mushing to find more.

Reply
Ben Team

Great point, Rodney! Thanks for sharing.
🙂

Reply
Denise

Best article I’ve read on this topic. Thank you

Reply
Ben Team

Glad you enjoyed it, Denise!

Reply
Carol in The Lou

How does one know if her dog is big enough to participate in these sports? Is there a dog/owner weight ratio?

Reply
Ben Team

Hey there, Carol.
You’ll really just have to use your judgement, based on the exact activity you plan on doing with your doggo. For example, your weight ratio won’t really matter if you plan on doing Canicross with your canine, whereas you’ll obviously have to be more careful if you engage in one of the sports that requires your pup to actually pull you around. That said, urban mushing authorities differ a bit, with some recommending dogs be at least 30 pounds, while others recommend dogs be at least 40 to 60 to engage in these sports.
Also, be sure to run your plan by vet before you get started. Best of luck!

Reply
Charles Henderson

I would like to know if there are any Urban mushers in the savannah ga area

Reply
Aeron Saffran

I have a young dog that’s a mix of husky, German Shepherd, and Timberwolf. I would love to start urban mushing and long distance exercising with her, but I’m not sure if we should use an x-back harness or an open back harness. She has a very loping gait and often looks like running is effortless for her.
Does anyone have any ideas or advice.

Reply
Linc

How is your sweetheart attached and to what/who for urban mushing and what climate? Has your vet seen your dog with out a harness walking as well as the harness.? Maybe your dog is fine but another halter or form of mushing may help.

After my vet found Dobie to have a bit of using the power on one leg less than the others, he took him for a short walk. Decision was he didn’t think this would interfere with dog power pulling, but he has some growing to yet. So every month he’s checked out. That leg is being used more consistently now. Appears to be just something he grew out of.
I’ll be using a recumbent Catrike 559 with a special rig bolted to the right side of the trike for my Dobie support dog. The harness is hand made by a fellow named Mark Schutte,,,Believe he’s in Oregon. I was searching for a year and discussing methods for me with my vet and doctors. (I have a mobility issue which includes balance problems) My service dog is in training to learn HOW to walk slowly and in a near constant “heel step” with me for his contact with my hip and freeze if he feels I losing balance.. Decided he deserved the right to have his “need for speed” met…..and the breeder, my vet, doctors, and special trainers had never thought about a recumbent trike attachment where I don’t need to pedal if Dobie wants to trot or gallop. The vet is checking Dobie for muscle and ligament development monthly before we start dog power trike. And he examined the harness carefully both on and off the dog.

Hope all works out for you; and that your dog is in excellent health.

Reply
stormy

I am so insanely excited about this Urban Mushing. I decided on an Urban Harness versus the X back. I don’t like how that stretches and goes over the dog’s hips. Dunno if that is a poor fit or if there is some physiological reason for this or if it is simply a poor fit.

I have two gorgeous, powerful dogs. Each is around 100# maybe 120# Powerful, YOUNG dogs that really really need more exercise than I am able to handle with my older body. Chocolate Lab plus blue heeler mix. They look every bit a gorgeous chocolate lab, I just had my pedigree choc. lab girl die of old age. They aren’t skinny no siree. In fact, I think they are gaining weight somehow. That will be fixed when I get this Urban Mushing happening.

Just working on getting them used to wearing the harnesses and learning the vocal commands. Dang, they learn so fast!

I have never seen happier dogs than the ones in the videos pulling and running to their heart’s delight. Never. I’ll send a picture of these two guys once I’ve got them pulling something. This entire thing is just like training horses, which I actually know, understand. And I have horses. This is the first time I haven’t been able to exercise and train dogs just by following me and the horses into the wilderness. This location although pretty much off grid is simply not a good area to allow dogs off leash. Too many bunnies, chipmunks, big cats, little cats, coyotes…way too much distraction . They need to learn how to run and COME! Otherwise, they are groovy with commands. This come command is a tough one to teach and my dogs will never be allowed off leash until they are trained better. They have a nice large fenced paddock and shed but…this Urban Mushing is the answer for me and them and my hubby! I’ve never seen a pair of such handsome chocolate lab with double coats, nice wide heads…wider tails! 3 – 4″ thick and curled, which is nice to keep tails out of the traces, equipment. Otherwise, dark chocolates, identical almost (Jack is about 10 to 15 pounds heavier than Zip…the eat the same amount, do the same daily exercise but I think Jack is gaining weight because of the raw hide chips?? They get zero human food. Someone offered them a potato chip and the boys ignored it. They get NON gmo dog food with goodies of wet cat food or pieces of meat without spices. Dogs need some carbs…they are not carnivores after all.

I have tried to get this one and only in our area canine mushing trainer but sigh, guess she has a day job that is more important.

My main goal right now is teaching them the commands, how to pull how to pull just enough and teaching them those commands.

We have lost the snow, FINALLY, but I imagined hooking them up to a tarp to start pulling? I need this transition between learning the commands, great leash skills (loose) and getting used to the harnesses…dragging something that makes noise, one could add weight to incrementally?

I am going towards this goal of Urban mushing imagining my boys with grins from ear to ear, getting to RUN RUN RUN with a mommy who KNOWS when too much is too much and how to get them in shape to run a bit more.

Just trying to decide between the tricycle or the scooter…such heavy heavy brain work going on here!! Grins!

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Linc

Our decision was a recumbent Catrike 559 with Mark Schuyotte”s “dog power” attachment. I have mobility issues from a nasty encounter with a semi-truck a few years ago. Thet rainers are working with my second service dog to balance me in a slow walk. Live in tropical metro area and the streets become extremely hot during the day. If I place the back of my hand on the pavement and can’t keep it there 5-10 mseconds, too hot to use the dog powered trike. Thought about boots and socks due to moisture build up in the boots, but the Busch Garden vet advised me to start toughening up the paws with mushers compound and perhaps use the pads that will cling to my 8 month old Doberman’s paws. We’ll have a break in the heat by end of October. In the meanwhile my husband is riding an adult tricycle with an extension rod with a spring enclosed in the rod. Rod is easily attached and removed every evening. My service dog in training is attach to the end of the rod to his light harness. Because my husband is a big man, there is no worry the dog would pull the tricycle over if he decides to check out another dog he hasn’t met..and the spring inside the rod helps to keep dog and man tethered side by side three feet a part. AND THAT DOG LOVES TO RUN AND PULL, so at times my 6’3″ man lifts he legs and does absolutely no pedaling. They ususally cover only 2 miles which is a safe distance; my Dobie’s ligaments and withers and so on have not yet fully reached complete attachment of an adult dog. The trike arrives in about a week from Orlando and the hand made harness and attachment from Mark Schette should be here by then. I’ll let you know how it goes. No way a dog(s) can turn the tadpole recumbend Catrike over. The can only run straight ; the rider controls the guidance and direction .

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Linc

Forgot to add…..about learning the proper commands, because my Dobie pup is up to the minimum number of necessary commands just to live safely in a city. (15) We practice each for 15 minutes sometime during the day…..and so no need really for us to try to add in the “mushing” commands you may need to teach. And if we ever had snow……..well, that doesn’t hsppen. :-}

Reply
stormy

I am so insanely excited about this Urban Mushing. I decided on an Urban Harness versus the X back. I don’t like how that stretches and goes over the dog’s hips. Dunno if that is a poor fit or if there is some physiological reason for this or if it is simply a poor fit.

I have two gorgeous, powerful dogs. Each is around 100# maybe 120# Powerful, YOUNG dogs that really really need more exercise than I am able to handle with my older body. Chocolate Lab plus blue heeler mix. They look every bit a gorgeous chocolate lab, I just had my pedigree choc. lab girl die of old age. They aren’t skinny no siree. In fact, I think they are gaining weight somehow. That will be fixed when I get this Urban Mushing happening.

Just working on getting them used to wearing the harnesses and learning the vocal commands. Dang, they learn so fast!

I have never seen happier dogs than the ones in the videos pulling and running to their heart’s delight. Never. I’ll send a picture of these two guys once I’ve got them pulling something. This entire thing is just like training horses, which I actually know, understand. And I have horses. This is the first time I haven’t been able to exercise and train dogs just by following me and the horses into the wilderness. This location although pretty much off grid is simply not a good area to allow dogs off leash. Too many bunnies, chipmunks, big cats, little cats, coyotes…way too much distraction . They need to learn how to run and COME! Otherwise, they are groovy with commands. This come command is a tough one to teach and my dogs will never be allowed off leash until they are trained better. They have a nice large fenced paddock and shed but…this Urban Mushing is the answer for me and them and my hubby! I’ve never seen a pair of such handsome chocolate lab with double coats, nice wide heads…wider tails! 3 – 4″ thick and curled, which is nice to keep tails out of the traces, equipment. Otherwise, dark chocolates, identical almost (Jack is about 10 to 15 pounds heavier than Zip…the eat the same amount, do the same daily exercise but I think Jack is gaining weight because of the raw hide chips?? They get zero human food. Someone offered them a potato chip and the boys ignored it. They get NON gmo dog food with goodies of wet cat food or pieces of meat without spices. Dogs need some carbs…they are not carnivores after all.

I have tried to get this one and only in our area canine mushing trainer but sigh, guess she has a day job that is more important.

My main goal right now is teaching them the commands, how to pull how to pull just enough and teaching them those commands.

We have lost the snow, FINALLY, but I imagined hooking them up to a tarp to start pulling? I need this transition between learning the commands, great leash skills (loose) and getting used to the harnesses…dragging something that makes noise, one could add weight to incrementally?

I am going towards this goal of Urban mushing imagining my boys with grins from ear to ear, getting to RUN RUN RUN with a mommy who KNOWS when too much is too much and how to get them in shape to run a bit more.

Just trying to decide between the tricycle or the scooter…such heavy heavy brain work going on here!! Grins!

Reply
stormy

Training dogs to pull is exactly like teaching horses to pull. We always ride past the entrance or gate…on principle. Training dogs is the best way to learn how to train your own kiddos. Take care of your engine (s) first commandment.

I won’t use boots unless I think I might enter some super dog type contest. And that I won’t do for a long long while. Boots, supports cause atrophy and weak limbs. I only shoe my horses if we are going to do some major back country where I have no idea the terrain. Keeps their hooves stronger and more flexible. I never blanket my horses anymore since boarding, they grow a great coat and are far more comfy than with a stupid blanket that needs to be changed twice a day…a blanket causes a horse to not acclimate well. An old horse, that is a bit different.

Asphalt is a no no, hard packed gravel for long distances is a no no. Iditarod is on snow. There is a reason for that. The distance these dogs have to work is actually unnatural. Get rid of the friction.

Kayla, very nice spectrum of stuff to know before mushing! We are taking it a tiny step at a time..and my boys are loving this DIRECTION, grins!

Reply
Kayla Fratt

Thank you so much for your kind words, Stormy! I had no idea that boots could be harmful. My own dog has never seemed to understand the need for them, so we very rarely use his. He seems to prefer being able to use his claws for grip anyway! The horse comparison is very useful.

Reply
stormy

Kayla, please share where the heck you are in this Urban Mushing process? They have boots for HORSES. For trails! I would love to have a pair for riding in the wilderness on rocky terrain. If the horse throws a shoe, there would be no better solution.

I am a barefoot nut. I had no idea that there were other weirdos out there in some sort of a club? My problem was I grew up in Hawaii with a pair of flipflops and a pair of patent leather sunday school shoes. Torture… I’ve just found Xero shoes….

Anyway, getting a dog’s feet conditioned to gravel, rocks, uneven surfaces, some asphalt takes a slower methodical process. If your dog starts limping? What are you going to do? Put both dogs in the sled, call for a pick up and/or start mushing all by yourself! A horse that starts limping on a ride in the wilderness… is usually a stone in their shoes. Easy fix. Otherwise, send in the search and rescue and helicopters!! ha ha ha..

Like my horses, I would have a bootie or two for emergencies only. Animals are far better partners in the wilderness than humans!! Well, newbies?

Reply
stormy

Kayla, please share where the heck you are in this Urban Mushing process? They have boots for HORSES. For trails! I would love to have a pair for riding in the wilderness on rocky terrain. If the horse throws a shoe, there would be no better solution.

I am a barefoot nut. I had no idea that there were other weirdos out there in some sort of a club? My problem was I grew up in Hawaii with a pair of flipflops and a pair of patent leather sunday school shoes. Torture… I’ve just found Xero shoes….

Anyway, getting a dog’s feet conditioned to gravel, rocks, uneven surfaces, some asphalt takes a slower methodical process. If your dog starts limping? What are you going to do? Put both dogs in the sled, call for a pick up and/or start mushing all by yourself! A horse that starts limping on a ride in the wilderness… is usually a stone in their shoes. Easy fix. Otherwise, send in the search and rescue and helicopters!! ha ha ha..

Like my horses, I would have a bootie or two for emergencies only. Animals are far better partners in the wilderness than humans!! Well, newbies?

Reply
Teri Stanaford

What do you mean always go past the entrance or gate on principle

Reply
Robert B

Great info. I came here about a month after getting a husky. We’ve been a couple of bikejoring fools for over a year now. He loves to run and I love that the 45 minute walks can be condensed down to a 20 minute ride.

It’s not for the timid but you won’t know until you try. Definitely agree on wearing a helmet and gloves.

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